Spantik Expeditions
Logistics for the Golden Peak's Southeast Ridge, run from Skardu.
SafarGB arranges the Pakistani side of Spantik expeditions from Skardu: royalty and permit paperwork, a liaison officer where the rules require one, porters for the approach from Arandu, base camp logistics, cooks and supply runs, and hotels and transport at both ends. Guiding teams, high-altitude porter support and any oxygen are agreed in writing for each expedition, so every climber knows exactly what is and isn't included before paying anything. Spantik (7,027 m) is climbed by its long Southeast Ridge from the Chogolungma Glacier, in expeditions of 28–31 days from Islamabad.
- Royalty and permit paperwork handled, with a liaison officer where the rules require one
- Porters for the three-day approach up the Chogolungma Glacier from Arandu
- Base camp at about 4,300 m, on a grassy shelf above the glacier
- Guiding, high-altitude porters and any oxygen agreed per expedition, in writing
30 days, composed.
- 1Days 1–4 · Islamabad to Arandu
Arrival in Islamabad, the flight to Skardu and permit formalities, then a jeep up the Shigar and Basha valleys to Arandu (5–7 hours), the last village.
- 5Days 5–7 · The Chogolungma approach
Three days up the Chogolungma Glacier via Chogo Brangsa and Bolocho to base camp at about 4,300 m.
- 8Days 8–24 · Rotations and summit
Camps at about 5,100, 5,600 and 6,250 m on the Southeast Ridge, with a fixed slope of 35–45° between Camps 2 and 3 and a long plateau to the top, climbed in a suitable weather window as planned by your guiding team.
- 25Days 25–30 · Walk out
Back down the glacier to Arandu, then the jeep to Skardu and the flight to Islamabad.
- Royalty and permit paperwork, liaison officer arrangements where required
- Porters for the approach and return, on insured, fair loads
- Base camp kitchen, cooks and supply runs
- Hotels and transport in Islamabad and Skardu, and the jeep to Arandu
- Guiding, high-altitude porters, oxygen and insurance as agreed per expedition
Questions, answered
How much does it cost to climb Spantik?
Published 2027 prices run from $3,600 for a Pakistani operator's base camp service (Trango Adventure, with the royalty extra) to £7,850 land only with Adventure Peaks, whose trip has a British leader but isn't guided. b4experience charges €4,150 including permits, park fees and fixed ropes, with high-altitude porters extra, and Trango's full board, with the royalty and one high-altitude porter per climber, is $5,150. The government royalty for peaks of 7,001–7,500 m is $500 per climber in summer. We quote each expedition individually once the team size, guiding and porter plan are agreed.
Is Spantik a good first 7,000 m peak?
It's one of the most popular. Adventure Peaks calls the Southeast Ridge relatively accessible and straightforward for a first 7,000er, with little technical difficulty and short sections of 30–40°, and asks for previous climbing to 5,000–6,000 m and Alpine PD+ competence. It's still a long, cold climb: there's a fixed slope of 35–45° between Camps 2 and 3, and summit day from Camp 3 can take 12–16 hours.
Why is it called the Golden Peak?
Its Burushaski name, Ganesh Chish, means Golden Peak, after the pale marble pillar on its northwest side, which glows in the evening sun above Nagar and Karimabad. Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders made the first ascent of that pillar in August 1987. The normal route climbs the other side of the mountain: the Southeast Ridge, first climbed by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer in 1955.
How long does a Spantik expedition take?
Most run 28–31 days from Islamabad: a jeep ride of 5–7 hours from Skardu to Arandu, three days' walk up the Chogolungma Glacier to base camp, about two weeks on the mountain, and the walk and drive back. Expeditions run from June to August, and summits have come from early July to late August.
How dangerous is Spantik?
Hidden crevasses, avalanche slopes, cold and altitude are the main risks. In June 2024 two Japanese climbers died on a summit push from Camp 2, and in July 2024 a third died in a crevasse fall on the descent. In August 2026 a climber died at about 6,400 m on the way down after a medical emergency, and the Alpine Club of Pakistan said it would investigate the conduct of her expedition company.
Does SafarGB provide the climbing guides?
We arrange the logistics on the ground in Pakistan and work with your chosen guiding team, or introduce one. Who guides, and on what terms, is agreed in writing before any payment.
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